Complex Snowpack Persists Across BC

MAJOR STORM CYCLE ARRIVES

UP TO 75 CM OF NEW SNOW IS EXPECTED ACROSS THE INTERIOR MOUNTAINS THROUGH SATURDAY

KEY TAKEAWAYS
  • March is historically the most dangerous month for avalanches in B.C.
  • The snowpack remains complex, with storm and wind slabs over persistent weak layers
  • A strong storm will bring widespread snowfall from Wednesday into Thursday night
  • Interior mountains could see 20–75 cm of new snow through Saturday
  • A warm atmospheric river next week could push snow levels sharply higher
  • The snowpack remains complex, making conditions challenging to assess

AVALANCHE CONDITIONS

March is historically and statistically the most dangerous month for avalanches in B.C.

The snowpack remains complex, with recent storm and wind slabs sitting over deeper persistent weak layers. That combination means avalanches may propagate wider and run farther than riders expect, even around treeline and below treeline.

Avalanche Canada states that staying close to trees doesn’t always mean safer travel. Riders should steer clear of slopes with overhead hazards and steep alpine terrain, relying on terrain management rather than just the snowpack. Slopes often thought to be safer — like treed or gladed areas — can still have avalanches triggered in steep forest openings.

Anyone heading into the backcountry should be familiar with the terrain and carry proper safety gear: a transceiver, shovel, and probe, along with a reliable means of communication.

Earlier this winter demonstrated how quickly conditions can change. After a dry start to 2026 in the Rockies and the Pacific Northwest, storms eventually brought heavy, dangerous snowfall. Over two weeks, avalanches claimed the lives of five skiers and snowmobilers near Canmore, Alta., and in the B.C. communities of Fernie, Revelstoke, Pemberton, and Creston. South of the border, nine people died in a large avalanche in California’s Sierra Nevada.

Researchers say avalanche risk could increase as climate change alters mountain weather. A 2024 study in the journal Nature confirmed findings from the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change, indicating that avalanche activity may increase at high elevations as precipitation levels rise.

Canada has warmed by about 2.4°C from 1948 to 2024. Warmer air holds more moisture, causing more precipitation — more rain at lower elevations and heavier snowfall higher in the mountains. Climate change is also shifting the weather towards a feast-or-famine cycle, with longer dry spells and intense storms, such as atmospheric rivers, delivering weeks of moisture in just a few days.

For backcountry riders, this can mean poor snow seasons, more rain-on-snow events, and sometimes walking kilometres to reach the snowline. It can also create pressure to make the most of limited snow days, which might lead travellers to underestimate avalanche hazards or venture into higher-risk terrain.

Avalanche conditions remain complex across much of the province. Conditions can vary significantly across short distances in the mountains.


INCOMING STORM CYCLE

A strong, cold storm will bring widespread snow to much of B.C. this week, with the heaviest snowfall expected from Wednesday into Thursday night.

The system moves in as a surface low approaches Vancouver Island and a warm front pushes into southern B.C., leading to heavy snowfall. Strong southwest winds are also expected in the alpine across the Coast Range and Interior.

Snowfall rates are expected to peak later in the week as the low moves across southern B.C.

Snow levels may briefly increase in the storm’s warm sector — around 600 metres at Whistler, 900 metres on the North Shore, and approximately 1,200 metres across parts of the southern Interior, including Red, Whitewater, and Fernie — before falling again behind the cold front early Thursday.

Further north — Sun Peaks, Revelstoke, and Kicking Horse — temperatures should rise only slightly, with snow levels remaining near the valley floors. Snow is expected to stay lighter and drier, while Red, Whitewater, and Fernie may experience denser snow overnight.

Behind the main system, a moderate westerly flow should keep snow showers going from Friday into Friday night. Another weaker disturbance is reaching southwest B.C. Friday evening and could bring additional snow to parts of the Interior overnight.


ESTIMATED SNOWFALL (WEDNESDAY-SUNDAY)

Fernie: 37–75 cm
Revelstoke, Whitewater, Rogers Pass, Kootenay Pass: 30–60 cm
Kicking Horse, Big White, Silver Star, Apex: 25–50 cm
Panorama, Kimberley: 22–45 cm
Sun Peaks: 20–40 cm

Most Interior resorts should see a healthy refresh from this cycle. Actual totals may vary locally, depending on wind and terrain.


LOOKING AHEAD

A few lingering snow showers are possible on Saturday, followed by a brief break in the pattern. Cold temperatures should keep snow conditions soft, although sun-exposed slopes could be affected.

A bigger shift is expected next week.

A storm arriving on Sunday or Sunday night will likely start with heavy snow as snow levels are still low. The system is expected to change into a warm atmospheric river, which could rapidly increase snow levels on Monday and Tuesday (March 16–17) — possibly reaching the summits of higher-elevation resorts like Whistler, Revelstoke, and Kicking Horse.

In short, enjoy the snowy pattern this week while it lasts. A warmer, wetter stretch could follow, with cooler air potentially returning later in March.

As always, conditions can vary significantly over short distances in the mountains, and recent field observations are often the best indicator of current avalanche hazard.

Staying safe begins with being well-informed and communicating clearly with your group. Be willing to adjust objectives as conditions evolve and let observations—rather than rigid plans—guide your decisions. Travelling in the winter mountains can involve risk, but slowing down and making cautious choices can significantly reduce it. Respect the terrain, keep an eye on each other, and be prepared to idle back when necessary. Not hiring a guide? Check out the BLBCA Self-Guided Recommendations or Avalanche Canada’s Trip Planner.

For the latest forecasts, trip planning tools and field reports, visit Avalanche Canada.

Brad Harrison, Colwest Alpine Adventures
Professional Member, Canadian Avalanche Association
Executive Director, Backcountry Lodges of BC Association
www.colwest.ca

bc ski conditions

Choosing Terrain Carefully

During BC’s February Warm-Up

It’s early February, and a significant shift in weather and avalanche conditions is underway across British Columbia. A strong warming trend is developing as an atmospheric river transports mild air into the province this week. Adding to the concern is a widespread layer of large surface hoar resting on a crust that has recently been buried across most forecast regions—an especially worrisome setup as temperatures rise, particularly for snowpacks in the BC Interior.

Recent avalanche activity demonstrates how reactive this layer is, highlighting the ongoing significant shift in weather and avalanche conditions this season. Both natural and rider-triggered avalanches have been reported, with several catching backcountry users off guard. Remote triggering has also been observed, indicating continued instability in the snowpack. Freezing levels climbed to around 2000m today in many areas and are expected to rise above 3000m tomorrow in the south. With periods of sunshine mixed in, conditions are likely to shift quickly toward a spring-like feel. As a result, understanding snowpacks in the BC Interior becomes even more important for safety.

While some details remain uncertain, the overall trend is evident: avalanche danger is increasing, and widespread natural avalanches are possible. Along the coast, more rain will fall on an already saturated snowpack. The main concern remains in the Interior, where warm temperatures have not yet tested this weak layer. With mild conditions expected to continue into the weekend, dangerous avalanche conditions are likely to persist across many areas, so monitoring snowpacks in the BC Interior is crucial during this period as we face a significant shift in weather and avalanche conditions.

Looking ahead, a strengthening ridge of high pressure will keep conditions mostly dry while maintaining well-above-average temperatures across much of BC. This pattern is expected to persist in the short term, representing a sharp departure from the colder conditions observed recently. For many areas, it will feel more like early spring than mid-winter. Confidence is growing that this ridge will start to break down next week, allowing a return to a more typical weather pattern. Moreover, a significant shift in weather and avalanche conditions will likely follow this change.

Interior BC Weather and Snow
Before the ridge fully settles in, the Interior will see a couple of weak systems moving through. A cold front is forecast to pass during the week, bringing a quick burst of snowfall ranging from 1 to 10cm. Snow levels should start near 1500m before dropping to around 1200m as the precipitation eases. Winds will be moderate from the southwest to west-southwest and should stay below impactful levels. Therefore, monitoring snowpack in the BC Interior is recommended as weather events unfold.

Another system arrives later in the week as a warm front moves through. Snow will begin late morning in the Okanagan and early afternoon along the Powder Highway, tapering off later in the day. This appears to be another short-lived, light event, with totals generally between 1 and 8cm. Snow levels will start near 1050m before rising towards 1200m, making the warm-up more gradual than along the coast. A significant overnight warm-up on Monday night is unlikely in the Interior.

Further inland, spillover into the Selkirks and Purcells seems limited, with only brief bursts of moisture and relatively mild winds. Over the next two days, snowfall is forecasted to be lighter, with about 5–10cm for Revelstoke and Silver Star, 3–8cm for Sun Peaks, and closer to 1–5cm for Kicking Horse.

For skiing, you’ll want to stay higher in the mountains. Terrain above about 1500m will have the best snow, while lower elevations tend to be wetter or more variable as temperatures rise.

Skiing is best at higher elevations. Above roughly 1500m, snow quality significantly improves, while at lower altitudes it tends to feel wet, heavy, or patchy as temperatures increase. Upper-elevation terrain should retain softer snow through Sunday and Monday, and likely into Tuesday, with a few light refreshes from these weaker systems.

With so much change happening, relying on the information available to us is more important than ever. One of the advantages of recreating in BC is the variety of forecasting and observation tools at our disposal. Avalanche Canada’s Mountain Weather Forecast, Windy, and YR.no are all reliable sources, and DriveBC highway forecasts can provide valuable insights into temperature trends and upcoming weather. If it’s been a while since your last avalanche course, a refresher with a local provider is always a good idea—especially during seasons marked by persistent weak layers. Consequently, staying up to date on significant shifts in weather and avalanche conditions is vital to planning outdoor adventures this month.

If you’re heading into the backcountry, preparation is key. Understand what the avalanche ratings are by visiting Avalanche Canada. High means natural avalanches are likely, and people are very likely to trigger slides. Considerable means natural avalanches are possible, and human-triggered slides are likely—conditions where small decisions can have big consequences. Moderate means that natural avalanches are less likely, but human-triggered avalanches remain a possibility, especially where weak layers are known. These ratings should directly influence your terrain choices and travel plans.

Staying safe begins with being well-informed and communicating clearly with your group. Be willing to adjust objectives as conditions evolve and let observations—rather than rigid plans—guide your decisions. Travelling in the winter mountains can involve risk, but slowing down and making cautious choices can significantly reduce it. Respect the terrain, keep an eye on each other, and be prepared to idle back when necessary. Not hiring a guide? Check out the BLBCA Self-Guided Recommendations or Avalanche Canada’s Trip Planner.

Brad Harrison, Colwest Alpine Adventures
Professional Member, Canadian Avalanche Association
Executive Director, Backcountry Lodges of BC Association
www.colwest.ca

bc ski conditions

Two Snowpacks in the BC Interior

A New Year’s Tale

For the BC Interior, the early-season snowpack situation has been a “best of time”- “worst of time” set of scenarios. The quality and quantity of snowpacks in the BC Interior have been a bit of a dog’s breakfast. We have had the usual elevation-specific dividing line for both risk and riding quality. Earlier, there was a clear dividing line between precipitation types: rain at lower elevations and significant snowfall at higher elevations, resulting in good riding conditions in the alpine but challenging access.

There has also been an anomalous pattern of consistently heavy snowfall in areas near Revelstoke and across the eastern ranges. Lake Louise is seeing a record-breaking start to the season, with the deepest early-season snowpack in 75 years. As of January 6, the Upper Mountain Base had recorded an impressive 533 cm of snowfall. Over Rogers Pass, ski touring has been defined by punishing trail-breaking, with seasonal totals sitting around 335 cm as of January 2nd. A recent storm delivered up to 40 cm over the January 3rd–4th weekend, with another 10–20 cm expected in the following cycle.

Meanwhile, many areas west and south of Revelstoke have been receiving significant precipitation, but much of it has been rain. Our thoughts and support are with anyone affected by the heavy rainfall and atmospheric river events experienced throughout November, December and into January. The warm temperatures and heavy rain have raised concerns about a weakening snowpack for both recreational riders and professional guides. At times, Avalanche Canada has indicated that the avalanche hazard is significant and has posted the “Danger Rating” as high. Storm systems persisted from mid-December through the Christmas period, driving a rapid increase in mountain snowpacks throughout the BC Interior. Drier and colder conditions during the final week of December reduced snow accumulation.

Most forecast models are pointing toward the development of a high-pressure ridge over western North America by mid-January, which isn’t great news for snow lovers. That said, more recent trends suggest the ridge may set up farther inland, leaving the door open for warm, moisture-laden storms to track into the BC Interior from the southwest. It’s still not an ideal pattern, as freezing levels and snow lines are expected to rise—especially along the Coast. That could mean rain for areas such as Whistler, the North Shore, and Vancouver Island later in the period as temperatures rise. The Interior will also see some warming, but it should be less pronounced than along the Coast, with precipitation amounts remaining more uncertain.

Northern zones, such as Revelstoke and Kicking Horse, are most likely to receive snow with this setup. While the base at Revelstoke might experience some rain at times, most of the skiable terrain should remain well above the rain–snow line. Further south, moisture appears more limited, reducing the potential for snowfall. As freezing levels rise, rain remains possible but should be pretty limited.

Overall, conditions should improve the farther inland you go and the higher you ascend, even as temperatures rise into early next week. Later in the month, the high-pressure ridge is forecast to move west, just off the coast. That positioning will likely block most storm systems, though it may also allow colder air to flow in from the north. Long-range guidance indicates limited moisture reaching BC, mainly impacting the Interior, with the possibility of occasional light snowfall. At this stage, the systems appear moisture-starved, and a colder, drier pattern appears more likely.

When planning a backcountry winter trip, it’s worth taking advantage of the range of online tools now available to you and your group. Avalanche Canada’s Trip Planner and the BLBCA’s “Recommendations for Self-Guided Groups” are solid resources when you’re deciding where to head for a day tour or a multi-day objective. One tool that’s newer to me—but has definitely caught my attention—is snowpack.avalanche.ca. While we wait for the snowpack to continue building, the depth filter has been an easy way to fixate on numbers. Many mapping apps now offer similar features, and it’s a good reminder of just how useful these digital tools have become for solid pre-trip planning.

As always, staying safe starts with staying informed, keeping communication open, and being willing to adapt as conditions change. Winter brings its challenges, but that’s part of what makes time in the mountains so rewarding. With a bit of planning and some honest decision-making, there’s still lots to enjoy while keeping risk in check. Make good calls, respect the backcountry, and aim for a season full of solid days out. Please recreate responsibly—and encourage others to do the same.

Brad Harrison
Colwest Alpine Adventures
www.colwest.ca
Professional Member, Canadian Avalanche Association
Executive Director, Backcountry Lodges of BC Association

bc ski conditions

A Snowpack in Transition

Between Storms & Structure?

I don’t have a very clear picture of the snowpack right now, mostly because I haven’t been out as much as I’d like. From what I can gather, we had some decent early-season snowfall through late October and early November before it dried up for a while. A warm spell in mid-November then formed a widespread rain crust, reaching an elevation of about 2100–2200 metres. That crust is now buried fairly deep, and it seems like most of what we’re dealing with now are various storm interfaces, with the occasional surface hoar layer lingering in more isolated treeline spots. With that broader context in mind, the immediate question is how the recent storms are building on this structure and what that means for travel and decision-making going forward.

Looking ahead, a series of warm atmospheric river events loaded with subtropical moisture and strong winds is forecast to impact the Pacific Northwest and southern BC through approximately mid-December. While this should bring ample precipitation, warmer temperatures and winds are likely to continue complicating the snowpack, especially at lower and mid elevations. Beyond December 15, the longer-term outlook seems somewhat more promising, with signs that cooler air may eventually return to the region. However, the current warm spell may take some time to dissipate entirely.

We were out teaching an avalanche course behind Sun Peaks on Sunday. December 14th, which helped clarify some of this. Snow depths in that area averaged around 85 cm, with a relatively simple structure of two to three layers. One notable layer was a supportive crust at a depth of about 45–50 cm. However, what stood out more than the layering was the temperature. Even on shaded aspects, it was around +4 °C at 2050 metres. We encountered upside-down powder — not ideal for enjoyable riding.

Conditions are clearly in transition, and it feels like winter is finally beginning to lean in. Most forecast areas expect a steady stream of precipitation through the weekend and into the coming week, which means the snowpack we’ve been discussing is about to be tested. As snow continues to accumulate, it’s prudent to step back and choose more conservative terrain while conditions adjust.

Although coverage at lower elevations remains limited, riding conditions at higher elevations have been quite good thus far, with relatively manageable avalanche risk in many areas. However, these conditions are evolving, and the approach that has worked so far might not be practical as the snowpack deepens. Clear, cold periods in mid to late November allowed weak layers to develop at the surface, including thin sun crusts, surface hoar, and facets reported across much of western Canada. In many regions, a November rain crust was later buried and has since developed facets above it. That layer is more likely to cause problems when rain falls on an already supportive snow surface, which is more common in lower-elevation alpine terrain. For now, it appears that the more recent layers at higher elevations in the snowpack are the primary concern.

Recently, lighter snowfall has gradually accumulated on these weak layers. With more snow expected—and possibly intensifying—it wouldn’t take much to tip the balance towards more reactive slab conditions. As these weak layers become more deeply buried, the risk of wider propagation and remote triggering grows.

In the near term, it’s wise to take a cautious approach. For now, keep things small and low risk, while closely monitoring snow conditions throughout the day. Below the treeline, coverage remains sparse in many areas, with rocks, stumps, and open creeks just beneath the surface. Fresh snow will make spotting these hazards more difficult, so it’s essential to plan your exits and travel routes as carefully as the descent itself.

Always check your favourite weather apps and online resources — sites like Windy.com and YR.no are good places to start — and make a habit of reviewing Avalanche Canada before heading out. If you’re planning to visit a backcountry lodge or hut and will be travelling without a guide, it’s worth taking the time to read through the BLBCA’s Recommendations for Self-Guided Groups. The purpose of that document is simple: to offer some common-sense practices that help keep people safe, without taking away from the stoke we’re all chasing when we head into the mountains. Having fun and being safe aren’t mutually exclusive.

Brad Harrison
Colwest Alpine Adventures
www.colwest.ca
Professional Member, Canadian Avalanche Association
Executive Director, Backcountry Lodges of BC Association

bc ski conditions

Stories of Ice – Timeless and Timely

Words & Photos by Lynn Martel

Five years ago, my book, Stories of Ice: Adventure Commerce and Creativity on Canada’s Glaciers, was published.

Having a book released in the middle of a global pandemic is not something I would wish for any author. Still, since publishing timelines are set many months, even years ahead, the process is a bit like wishing for a perfect snowpack when you book next winter’s lodge trip.

I didn’t write Stories of Ice to tell individual stories, but to convey the broader story of what glaciers mean to us in Western Canada. I chose each story like adding another snowflake to the layers of how glaciers have shaped Canadians’ lives, and how they continue to. These stories are timeless.

Canada’s landscape was shaped by glaciers over repeated ice ages. Glaciers shaped BC’s mountains, from the Rockies to the Coast Mountains and all the ranges in between. The first humans arrived in North America after the major valley-bottom glaciers of the last Ice Age had melted, some 11,000 (Rockies) to 14,000 (Coast) years ago. The fur trade that brought Europeans to Canada’s West was in part fueled by the Little Ice Age that chilled the North Atlantic region from the 1600s to the 1900s. The railway that connects Canada’s east and west coasts – completed in 1885 – brought our first glacier viewing tourists, along with hotels, horse outfitters and climbers.

When I see glaciers – particularly in western Canada – I don’t just see ancient ice. I see stories. From the first Swiss guides to hike up the Death Trap at Lake Louise, to Mary Vaux and her brothers conducting North America’s first glacier science on the Illecillewaet, to Guy Edwards and John Millar skiing the Coast Mountains traverse for half a year in 2001. From Byron Harmon’s photos of Lake of the Hanging Glacier to today’s Instagrammers.

Anyone connected to Western Canada’s backcountry skiing community will recognize a lot of names on these pages, from Collie and Thompson’s outrageous 1897 crevasse rescue on the Wapta Icefield, to Hans Gmoser’s legendary backcountry skiing weeks in Little Yoho’s deep 1950s snowpacks, to Tannis Dakin watching Nordic Glacier shrink from season to season from Sorcerer Lodge’s living room window over three decades.

Glacier stories flow through the snowpack of all our lives.

I feel the fact we have stories to share makes our glaciers that much more valuable. Glaciers are inhospitable environments, and many of the experiences we share with friends and partners on them are out of the ordinary. Cold, harsh winds, heavy packs, mysterious crevasses, exquisitely beautiful arches and caves. That makes them extra worthy of celebrating, especially as they melt, much, much faster than they’ve ever melted at any other time in the history of humans living on Earth.

I’ve enjoyed sharing lots of Stories of Ice slide shows over these five years, with climbing clubs, schools, environmental groups and corporate getaways. As an IGA-certified Interpretive Hiking Guide, I’ve led glacier storytelling workshops for my colleagues and the general public. My shows include dozens and dozens of fabulous photos to accompany the stories, and who doesn’t love looking at spectacular glacier photos? Some of the stories are darned funny too, which nicely balances out the melting aspect. Wild things can happen on glaciers.  

Earlier this year, I wrote a feature article for Alberta Views magazine about MELTDOWN: A Drop in Time photo exhibit now on display at the Columbia Icefield Centre until 2027, accessible to viewers when the centre reopens in spring.

“The images were downright jaw-dropping. Giant prints—some wider than many living room walls—featured sculpted, polished and glimmering blue glacier ice, some resembling splendid precious gems. Others showed no ice at all. Dry rock, bare, sharp ridgelines, rubbly moraine slopes, naked cliff bands. Dark, dirty, dry and withered ice. Dying ice. On one hand, the ultimate eye candy for a glacier lover; on the other, a bitter aftertaste of reality.”

For me, this paragraph sums up how many of us feel watching glaciers we know, glaciers with roles in the stories of our own lives, melt and slowly – or not so slowly – diminish.

Meltdown is the project of alpine and ice climbing hardman Jim Elzinga, in partnership with cinematographer Roger Vernon. Watching the routes he pioneered in the 1980s disappear inspired Elzinga to found Guardians of the Ice, a non-profit focused on the steadily shrinking Columbia Icefield as an indicator of the worldwide climate crisis.

Elizinga chose the large-scale photo format to immerse viewers in an IMAX-like experience. “I feel this is the best way to create an emotional connection with the viewer and provide them with an experience as if they were actually in the mountains. Our purpose is to effectively engage the public to build support for a low-carbon future.”

Toward this end, Elzinga is a partner with the 2025 United Nations International Year of Glaciers Preservation. I am a partner too.

The IYGP was proposed in 2022 by Tajikistan, whose 13,000 glaciers supply the mountain headwaters of Central Asia and serve some 2 billion people downstream. Most of the world’s glaciated countries are participating, and with Switzerland’s glaciers having lost 10 per cent of their volume in two years alone—2022 and 2023—that country and France announced significant commitments.

The Year’s purpose is to raise awareness of the vital role glaciers, snow and ice play in the climate system and water cycle, as well as the far-reaching impacts of rapid glacier melt. For our part, a full quarter of Earth’s remaining ice is found in Canada, with some 18,000 glaciers in the mountain west, 16,000 in BC.

A 2015 study found that western Canada would lose 60 to 80 per cent of its glacier ice by 2100, with the bulk of the melting occurring between 2020 and 2040.

And I’ve since wondered, what would the melting look like?

The answer has become more visible since the 2021 Heat Dome that roasted western Canada. For excellent info about Canada’s glaciers and their melt pace, visit www.unglacieryear.ca

For my part, I’m always finding more stories. I shared some in the Summer/Fall issue of Columbia Valley magazine, The Trench. I spoke about the value of glacier storytelling on a panel with filmmaker Roger Vernon, Leanne Allison, and Swiss photographer Jean-Francois Delhom at the Fire and Ice Symposium at the Banff Mountain Film Festival in November.

And every summer, I spend my free days hiking with my camera to various favourite glaciers, many of them not studied by scientists, but well-known to backcountry skiers.

It’s not easy photographing the melting, thin, dehydrated, shrivelling ice. New rock buttresses are exposed, like on Mount Hector. I would have liked to visit Abbot Pass Hut once more. I expect we’ll soon learn sections of the Rockies’ Great Divide alpine traverse are no longer skiable.

But it’s been said that the best way to fight grief is to seek joy.

And I find joy amidst our glaciers.

Sometimes brilliant blue ice. Sculpted icebergs floating in turquoise melt pools. Salmon Glacier last summer was spectacular.

And I’m learning the landscape that emerges after the ice melts. It’s a raw, wild, primal landscape. Fascinating rock formations. I’ve learned which plants move in first – Mountain Avens, and willow bushes. Stonecrop. It’s a rebirth after centuries, millennia of ice blanketing that land.

We honour our glaciers by sharing their stories.

Lynn Martel has published three books with Rocky Mountain Books, plus 10 biographical booklets and countless articles about the people, places and unique culture of western Canada’s mountain world. View her books, photography or hire her for a Stories of Ice presentation at www.lynnmartel.ca

For other stories of ice, check out our blog Year of the Glacier.

This Winter – La Niña?

La Niña or ENSO Neutral?

Last year’s weather forecast of a strong La Niña flow never really materialized. The winter of 2024/25 started with a bang, dried up mid-season, and recovered somewhat towards the end. By season’s end, we were left with a near-average snowfall throughout much of BC’s Interior. And, of course, there will always be exceptions across the province.

Looking ahead to the winter of 2025–2026, it’s shaping up to be another borderline season, much like last year. Current forecasts indicate a start to the winter with an ENSO (El Niño-Southern Oscillation)-neutral pattern, followed by a transition to a weaker La Niña pattern by the end of the season. Over the past month, ocean temperatures in a key area of the Pacific (the Niño-3.4 region) have been about half a degree cooler than usual.

This cooler trend—roughly 0.5°C below average—is expected to persist for several months, which is one of the signs that a La Niña pattern may be developing.

To sum it up, “most” of the weather experts feel that the early season in our region, Nov-Jan, will be ridge-dominant, providing lower to normal snowfall. In contrast, the mid-to-late season will see the ridge weaken, and a trough-dominant system develop over our area, allowing for above-normal snowfall. Always remember that long-range weather forecasts are inherently unreliable; they provide historical trends and “likelihoods”.

As we move through December, it is worth doing a quick summary of snowpack variations across alpine, treeline, and below treeline throughout the province. Avalanche Canada has started its daily forecasts. Make sure to check your local forecast as well as any Mountain Information Network reports that refer to areas adjacent to your riding destinations.

As you get ready for winter, take a moment to go over your gear and make sure everything’s in good working order—especially your transceiver. Even the pros regularly practice their companion rescue skills, so grab your touring partners and run a few drills together. Check that your tape, glue, spare batteries, and other essentials are all in good condition. And while you’re at it, when was the last time you re-glued your skins or gave your board or skis a fresh wax? A little prep now goes a long way once you’re out there.

We are fortunate in B.C. to have many resources, such as detailed weather forecasts, at our fingertips. Some of my go-tos resources include Avalanche Canada’s Mountain Weather Forecast, Windy.com, YR.NO, and DriveBC’s highway forecasts, which can also provide important information. You may want to consider taking an avalanche course or a refresher course with a local provider. Check out our own Know Before You Go, great info.

If you’re heading into the backcountry, including ducking a rope at a ski hill, make sure you’re well prepared and understand the avalanche danger ratings before you go. Understand what Avalanche Canada’s Public Avalanche Bulletin is trying to tell you. Know what each level means—High means natural avalanches are likely and human-triggered ones are very likely; Considerable means natural avalanches are possible, and human-triggered ones are likely; and Moderate means natural avalanches are unlikely, but human-triggered ones are still possible. If you have done your research and are prepared, it’s doubtful you will be surprised. If you are uncertain, it’s always good practice to jump on a guided trip at a BLBCA member lodge or hire an independent, certified guide(s). You will benefit from their experience. Be sure to hire an ACMG– or CSGA-certified guide.

In the name of safety, let’s stay informed, keep communication open, and be prepared to adjust your plans as conditions change. Winter always brings its share of challenges—but that’s part of the adventure. With some thoughtful planning, we can enjoy everything the alpine has to offer while keeping risks in check. Here’s to making wise choices, respecting the backcountry, and creating a winter full of great memories. And as always, please recreate responsibly—and encourage others to do the same.

Sincerely, Brad Harrison
Professional Member, Canadian Avalanche Association
Executive Director, Backcountry Lodges of BC Association

bc ski conditions

Backcountry Bliss Awaits

Why Choose a BLBCA Lodge this Winter

Discovering the outdoors from a lodge deep in the wilderness isn’t just about the destination — it’s about the whole journey. From earning your turns on skis or a snowboard to returning to a rustic retreat surrounded by alpine stillness, a backcountry lodge stay offers something deeper and more connected than the average mountain getaway, with 32 lodges in the Backcountry Lodges of B.C. Association (BLBCA) network tucked in British Columbia’s four major ranges (the Rockies, Columbia Mountains, Cariboo-Chilcotins and Coast Range). Staying at one of these lodges can make befriending the blbca lodge network even more rewarding.

Here are five compelling reasons to find a lodge near you this season:

Amazing Get-Aways
These lodges are intentionally tucked away: no highways, no resort crowds. Most BLBCA lodges are reached by helicopter in winter, with some snowcat and self-propelled options. Once on site, you’re immersed in genuine wilderness, offering ample opportunities to see wildlife in their winter habitat.

Shake the Crowds
Due to the location of the lodges, you won’t share parking lots or lift lines. Many lodges host relatively few guests (averaging 12 beds per lodge), offering a more personal and intimate experience, just what you would expect from a blbca lodge.

Fresh Powder/Fresh Tracks
If riding in April matters to you, these locations deliver: skiing, split-boarding, snowshoeing, and exploring vast terrain just outside your door. The appeal of late-season pristine powder is very real and achievable. Check out local snowpack and weather conditions.

Options: Self-Catered/Guided or Catered/Guided
While “backcountry” suggests ruggedness, BLBCA member lodges offer a full range, from rustic to luxurious. Choose whether to self-cater or opt for a fully catered package. After a day of exploration, you’ll return to cozy accommodations, delicious meals, a sauna, and a great place to “chill”. A retreat at a blbca lodge ensures a memorable experience.

BC’s Backcountry at its Finest
You’ll find yourself surrounded by high-mountain forests, glacial ridges, alpine meadows, and wide-open skies. Beyond the scenery, many lodges are operated with a strong focus on sustainability, low-impact access, and environmental stewardship — making the experience more meaningful than just the activity you are enjoying.

In short: if you’re looking to #unpluginBC, get out, earn your turns, and then relax in BC’s inimitable backcountry — choose a lodge from the BLBCA network. Staying at a BLBCA Lodge offers an unparalleled wilderness experience.

bc ski conditions

Shop Local Now: Safeguarding Canada’s Future Amid Uncertainty

A Stand for Solidarity Amidst Economic Challenges

In today’s interconnected global economy, our consumer choices carry profound weight. With U.S. President Donald Trump’s recent threats of hefty tariffs, Canadians face a renewed call to shop local, prioritizing homegrown businesses and products. Choosing to shop local not only bolsters our national economy but also showcases our resilience and unity against external pressures.

Why We Should Always Shop Local

Supporting local businesses is the cornerstone of a strong, self-sustaining economy. When we shop local—whether at retailers, artisans, or producers—our dollars stay within our communities, driving job creation and economic growth. Local businesses often rely on nearby suppliers and services, creating a ripple effect that uplifts entire regions.

Beyond economics, shopping local preserves our neighbourhoods’ distinct character and culture. These businesses offer personalized products and services tailored to local tastes, enriching our lives and fostering community pride. According to the Canadian Federation of Independent Business (CFIB), every dollar spent at a small business keeps 66 cents in the local economy, compared to just 11 cents when spent at multinational chains.

The Impact of Threatened Tariffs

In early 2025, President Trump proposed a 25% tariff on imports from Canada and Mexico, citing border security and drug trafficking concerns. Though a 30-day pause was secured, the uncertainty has rattled markets and strained the long-standing U.S.-Canada relationship. For Canadian industries like automotive manufacturing, agriculture, and technology, these tariffs threaten disruptions, job losses, and economic instability. A Canadian Federation of Independent Business (CFIB) report (January 2025) found that Canadian small business confidence declined by five points on the Monthly Business Barometer since November.

Potential tariffs could raise the cost of imported goods, making it even more critical to shop locally. By doing so, we protect jobs, sustain communities, and reduce dependence on foreign markets, thereby strengthening Canada’s domestic supply chains.

The Need to Remove Provincial Trade Barriers

While the push to shop local is vital, interprovincial trade barriers hinder Canadian businesses from thriving. Restrictions on transporting goods, inconsistent regulations, and varying tax structures limit companies’ ability to expand beyond their home provinces. Eliminating these barriers would create a more unified economy, empowering local businesses to grow and compete nationally. This would encourage Canadians to shop local, not just in their own communities but across provincial lines, with ease.

Take health care for exampleCanada’s doctors can’t practise in any other province due to interprovincial barriers. The Canadian Medical Association has advocated for a “pan-Canadian approach” to address the health workforce crisis—a principle that could inspire broader economic integration.

Ways to Support Local Businesses

Shopping local goes beyond visiting a storefront. Many businesses now offer e-commerce platforms, letting you shop local from home with options like direct delivery or curbside pickup—keeping revenue in the community. When booking accommodations or ordering takeout, bypass third-party apps and buy directly from the business to maximize local impact. While large corporations may weather economic storms, small businesses need our deliberate support to survive.

A Commitment to Canada’s Future

“Shop local” isn’t just a slogan—it’s a pledge to strengthen our communities. By choosing to shop local, we fuel economic growth and safeguard Canada’s unique identity. Pairing this with efforts to dismantle provincial trade barriers will ensure businesses thrive nationwide and secure a prosperous future for all.

Brad Harrison, Colwest Alpine Adventures
Professional Member, Canadian Avalanche Association
Executive Director, Backcountry Lodges of BC Association

bc ski conditions

BC Ski Conditions Update: Where to Find the Best Snow This Season

Update – Where has La Niña Gone? What it means for Skiing in BC now.

The start of 2025 has been drier than usual in parts of British Columbia, with some areas experiencing early-season drought conditions. While lower elevations lack fresh snowfall, dedicated skiers and riders can still find quality turns in the backcountry, for a BC ski conditions update: where to find the best snow, the key, as always, is knowing where to look.

Snowfall Has Been Highly Variable

This season has been defined by inconsistent snowfall across BC. While some areas have struggled with minimal accumulation, others have been hit with heavy dumps. A prime example is Crescent Spur Heliskiing, which received an impressive 40-60 cm in 30 hours, while nearby Tête Jaune saw only 2 cm in the same period. These drastic differences highlight the unpredictable nature of this year’s snowfall patterns for anyone looking to update on BC ski conditions.

Despite the lack of major storms, many ski hills have done an excellent job maintaining skiable terrain. Their grooming teams have been hard at work, ensuring their resorts remain in top shape for visitors. While fresh powder may be limited, the well-maintained runs continue to offer enjoyable skiing.

Backcountry Conditions: What to Watch For

For those venturing into the backcountry, there are both opportunities and hazards to keep in mind. Snow coverage varies significantly by region, and the snowpack is far from uniform. In the BC Interior, the snowpack tends to taper sharply as you descend into or below the treeline, making route selection crucial. Some mountain ranges have remained relatively thin, while conditions in other areas are even more sparse, making glacier travel especially challenging. Skiers and riders should do the appropriate research before any trip, approach specific areas cautiously, and be prepared for tricky navigation over exposed terrain.

Another important factor this season is a persistent layer of buried surface hoar, which has been reactive in some areas but not in others. Regions like Rogers Pass have seen increased activity, mainly where wind slabs have formed. Travellers in avalanche terrain should carefully assess slope stability and check regional forecasts before heading out. Thus, BC ski conditions update: always keep track of recent reports before any backcountry adventure.

Navigating the Season Ahead

With such varied conditions, adaptability is key. If planning a backcountry trip, pay close attention to recent weather patterns and local snow reports. Avalanche forecasts remain critical, particularly with a spotty but potentially dangerous weak layer in play. For valuable information, utilize Avalanche Canada’s Public Avalanche Bulletin, our Know Before You Go, and Resources and Organizations for the latest BC ski conditions update.

As we move further into the season, keep an eye on shifting snow conditions and be prepared for a mix of deep snow in some places and firm or shallow coverage in others. Whether inbounds or out in the backcountry, staying informed will help ensure safe and rewarding turns. Here’s to making the most of BC’s unpredictable winter!

Brad Harrison, Colwest Alpine Adventures
Professional Member, Canadian Avalanche Association
Executive Director, Backcountry Lodges of BC Association

Image of brad harrison, author of article

Wildflowers

Pioneering Life of Mary Schäffer Warren 

Wildflowers, a film about Mary Schäffer Warren’s pioneering life, made its big screen debut last fall at the Banff Centre Mountain Film and Book Festival.

In the film, a group of women led by outdoor writer Meghan J. Ward retraces Schäffer’s legendary 1908 expedition to Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park.

Co-produced by Ward, based in Banff, and Trixie Pacis, a filmmaker from Kimberley, the documentary is based on the shared passions for mountain exploration and history held by two women, Schäffer Warren (1861-1939) and Ward, separated by a century.

“Having our world premiere at the Banff festival was our big goal from the beginning, not only because it is a prestigious festival but because it is one with deep connections to the film,” according to Pacis, the film’s director.  

Schäffer Warren was a pioneer in more ways than one. Born in Pennsylvania, she was destined to buck the conventions of polite early 20th-century Victorian society, where a woman’s place was to be dressed up nicely for teatime in the parlour. 

Schäffer Warren was born into money, and it came with privilege. She studied art at a young age and married Dr. Charles Schäffer, a doctor and amateur botanist. Together, they made many train trips to Banff, and she fell in love with the Canadian Rockies. Mt. Schaffer near Lake O’Hara is named after the couple.

When her husband died, she was widowed at age 43. 

That’s when her life took a big turn. Schäffer Warren “reinvented herself as a mountain explorer, writer and photographer,” as described on the Wildflowers’ website.

She was the first non-Indigenous woman to visit Maligne Lake and many parts of Jasper and Banff national parks. She also wrote two books, including the classic Old Indian Trails of the Canadian Rockies.

The seeds for Wildflowers were planted in 2020 when Pacis started working with Ward at Paul Ziska Photography in Banff. They became friends and soon learned they were fascinated with mountain history, notably Mary Schäffer Warren. 

More than a century after the original journey, Ward, photographer Natalie Gillis, and travel writer Jane Marshall decided to follow Schäffer Warren’s inspiring footsteps to Maligne Lake.

Pacis, a Banff Centre Adventure Filmmakers Workshop graduatesaw it as a perfect pitch for a documentary film.

“Like Mary, Meghan moved west to the Rockies and reinvented herself as a mountain writer. Meghan once described her curiosity about Mary as ‘an itch that can’t be scratched,’” Pacis said.

Schäffer Warren remains an inspiring figure for women in many ways. In the early 1900s, when females were not allowed to join official survey parties, a man employed by the Geological Survey of Canada had the guts to ask Schäffer Warren to survey Maligne Lake. 

It says a lot about the respect she had as an explorer and woman who was smart and could handle herself as well as any man could in the mountains.

At the same time, Pacis said Schäffer Warren’s life overlapped with “a significant time of colonial impact in the Canadian Rockies.”

“Reflecting on Mary’s legacy invites us to ask questions, rethink history, and consider what we can do now to blaze a better trail forward,” Pacis said.

Schäffer Warren built a house in Banff and eventually remarried one of her longtime guides, Billy Warren.

She died in 1939 of pneumonia but left behind a legacy of trailblazing – in the mountains and in a society that tried to put restrictive limits on what a woman could choose to do.   

Natalie Gillis, the documentary team’s photographer, died tragically last June in a plane crash.

“Banff was also special to our friend and expedition photographer,” said Pacis. “We have dedicated this film in loving memory of Nat and know that sharing this film in Banff, surrounded by her family and our friends, was a unique way to honour her memory.”

Written by Andrew Findlay – @afindlayjournalist

Return of La Nina!

Good for BC Riders 

The weather gurus predicted we had a 71% chance that we would experience a La Nina weather system this season. This shift can alter weather patterns, creating a northwest flow that funnels cold, moisture-laden air from the Pacific Ocean into BC, perhaps lots of snow for us to enjoy. For a detailed explanation of this winter’s La Nina forecast and how it might affect conditions in BC, visit OpenSnowwritten by meteorologist Alan Smith.

As we move through January, it is worth doing a quick summary of the snowpack in the alpine and around the province. A couple of avalanche incidents were reported earlier. Avalanche Canada started their regular forecasts on November 21st at 4:00 PM PST. Check your local forecast and any MIN (Mountain Information Network) reports that refer to the area around your riding destination.

It’s always a good time to inspect your gear; double-check that your transceiver is functioning properly. Industry professionals continually work on their companion rescue skills. Do some drills with your touring partners. Is your tape, glue, spare batteries, etc., and other gear in your pack all functioning as expected? When was the last time you re-glued your skin? Waxed your board or skis?

We are fortunate in Canada to have many resources, such as detailed weather forecasts, at our fingertips. Some of my go-to’s are Windy.com and YR.NObut DriveBC highway forecasts can also provide important information. You may consider taking an avalanche course or a refresher with a local provider.

Be well prepared if you plan to head out into the backcountry. Understand what the avalanche danger ratings mean, particularly High – “natural avalanches are likely, human-triggered avalanches are very likely,” Considerable – “natural avalanches are possible, human-triggered avalanches are likely” and Moderate – “natural avalanches unlikely, human-triggered avalanches possible.”

In the spirit of safety, let’s stay informed, communicate effectively, and adapt our plans accordingly. Winter’s challenges are part of the adventure, and with a thoughtful approach, we can continue to enjoy our alpine environment while managing risks. Here’s to making smart decisions, respecting the backcountry and its residents, and ensuring an enjoyable, memorable and safe winter season. Please remember to #recreateresponsibly and ask others to do the same.

Take good care.

Brad Harrison
Executive Director, BLBCA
[email protected]

bc ski conditions

Tech Binding turns 40

The story of one of the most important inventions in ski touring history  

I attached Alpine Trekkers to my downhill skis the first time I went ski touring and clicked in with my clunky Alpine boots. It was 1997, and I was probably lifting more than 10 pounds of gear with each stride. I was also young, fit and ignorant enough to think the system was amazing. Until one day a Swiss mountain guide using Dynafit touring bindings left me dragging a mile behind him.

I can still picture those bindings. They don’t look that different than the ones on my skis today or the first pin binding introduced in 1984, as such “Low-Tech” bindings are unique among outdoor gear.

Besides the two wheels, today’s mountain bikes share little with the early off-road rigs of 40 years ago. Backpacks have gone from exterior aluminum frames to internal suspension systems. And while skis still have a tip and tail, everything in between has changed.

Meanwhile, the pincer toe, U-pin and boxy heels of today’s tech bindings are obviously descendants of the binding Fritz Barthel invented four decades ago.

“Laziness is the mother of invention,” says Barthel.

The story goes, in 1982, he and a buddy were driving back to Austria from a Mediterranean climbing trip and, on a whim, decided to ski Mont Blanc. When they reached the summit, they were exhausted and nearly didn’t make it back to the car. On the drive home, Barthel, an engineering student and lifelong tinkerer, wondered what he could have done differently. Low Tech’s 30th Anniversary

“I could have trained more to be in a better shape,” he told GearJunkie, a website. “But this was not really an option for me, as I’m a very lazy person.” It All Started With a Near-Death Experience: The Toe-Pin Ski Binding Turns 40

The logical solution was to design a lighter touring binding system. Touring bindings at the time worked similarly to today’s “frame” bindings with resort-style bindings mounted on a plate, or frame, that swivelled from a point near the toe. Barthel realized the key to a lighter setup was the relatively new introduction of stiff plastic ski boots. It would eliminate the need for a heavy frame. The problem was the connection.

After many iterations, Barthel developed a system that used metal pins at the toe that coordinated with notches on a boot and a similar connection at the heel that spun out of the way for climbing.

“At the time, everything had to be called ‘high-tech’ to be successful,” Barthel says. “But, what should this lightweight, mechanically simple binding be called? Low Tech, of course.”

By 1984, Barthel had a working prototype and a patent for his Low-Tech system. He shopped the idea to all the big boot and binding manufacturers, but they were put off by the unusual-looking binding and the fact shoppers of the new bindings also required new boots.

“I still have all the rejection [letters] of all the companies,” Barthel said. “There was no official interest.”

Eventually, Dynafit permitted him to retrofit the binding connections into its boots, with the catch that Barthel had to buy them first. Dynafit.com

His dad, an avid backcountry skier, raised some money, and Barthel turned his basement into a workshop. At first, sales were slow. Then, some ski-mo racers saw the advantage, adopted the system and started winning races. Soon, Barthel was manually retrofitting 1,000 pairs of boots a year. It was unsustainable for a home-based business, and Low Tech was finally enticing enough for the more prominent companies.

In 1990, Dynafit licensed the patent, took over the boot and binding manufacturing and renamed the Tourlite Tech system. (Thirty-five years later, Barthel continues to consult with Dynafit about their bindings and boots.)

As the system gained popularity among the growing ski touring community, Dynafit became synonymous with “tech” bindings. Barthel’s original patent expired in 2006. Overnight, several ski brands introduced their versions.

One of the first was Vancouver-based G3 or Genuine Guide Gear. In the mid-2000s, an alpine touring binding fit well with its mix of avalanche safety gear and telemark bindings. Its first offering, the Onyx binding, sought to alleviate concerns that the tiny pins weren’t reliable or robust enough for hard downhill skiing. It looked beefier and had lateral release values, similar to the DIN settings on resort bindings. It has since been replaced by more minimalist models that the new owner of G3 will continue to sell. G3 is back online and ready for another lap; see G3 Bindings.

The Onyx was a precursor to the Marker Kingpin, which had a pin-style toe but an alpine binding-style heel. Salomon and its sister brand Atomic eventually adapted the idea further with the Shift binding. It uses a pin-style toenail for skinning and a traditional alpine attachment system for the descent, Marker Kingpin Bindings, 2025.

Low tech is now catching on in snowboarding. First, individual riders milled pin connections into their soft boots or created their own “franked systems” out of alpine touring gear. Today, there are several brands, such as Phantom Snow. Voile and Spark R&D, who design and manufacture tech-style boots and bindings specifically for split-boarding, see Cripple Creek Backcountry.

The dozens of tech-style bindings on the market mostly stick closer to Barthel’s original goal of making ski touring lighter and more user-friendly. The latest company to get into the pin binding game is Tyrolia with its new Almonte 12 PT. They look and function very similar to the originals but are lighter, safer, more reliable and easier to use. As such, Fritz Barthel is one of the key architects who made ski touring the approachable and accessible sport it is today. I thank him every time I skin past someone sweating uphill in a clunky frame binding or, worse, Alpine Trekkers.

Written by Ryan Stuart – @Ryan_Adventures

Year of the Glacier

The United Nations has declared 2025 the International Year of Glaciers’ Preservation. Let’s face it: it’s a hopeful declaration. Between about 100,000 and 11,000 years ago, most of North America was frozen beneath ice three kilometres thick in places. Known as the Wisconsin glaciation, it was the last major ice age to grip the northern hemisphere. Time must have practically stood still in this virtually lifeless landscape. It’s no wonder that humans would adopt the word “glacial” as a metaphor for things that move ponderously slowly.

However, that metaphor is melting. The glaciers we know are vestiges of ancient geological history, and they are rapidly leaving the ice age. Human-caused climate change is accelerating this exit. Unless we can limit global warming to a few more tenths of a degree, we’ll lose two-thirds of the world’s remaining glaciers by the year 2100.

Helm Glacier is one of them. Nestled on the north face of Gentian Peak, near Garibaldi Lake, the Helm has been studied more than almost any other glacier in southwestern BC. Federal government scientists started taking measurements there in the 1960s when it covered an area of around 4 square kilometres. Today, it covers just a square kilometre, and it’s not long for this world, says Mark Ednie, a geologist with the Geological Survey of Canada.

The Helm is one of dozens that Ednie monitors in the Western Cordillera of Canada, from the Rockies to the Coast Range. He visits all of them twice a year: once in the spring to measure snow depth and snow density and once in late summer to measure ice melt. Combine these two measurements, and you get something called “mass balance,” a metric that describes whether a glacier is growing or shrinking.

“It’s usually in the negative column,” Ednie says.

You don’t need to be a geologist to know that most of our glaciers are disappearing; you only need to spend a few summers in the mountains and open your eyes.      

Scientists divided a glacier into two zones. The accumulation zone occupies the higher elevations, where the ice remains snow-covered year-round. Below that snow, or firn line, is the zone of ablation, where more snow is lost than accumulates and is often bare ice.

A healthy glacier is growing and is in constant motion. Snow in the accumulation zone feeds the formation of ice, which flows from the upper to lower reaches of the glacier.

Since Ednie started visiting Helm Glacier in 2018, there has been no accumulation zone. Whatever snow falls in winter is long gone by the end of summer.

“So, it means the whole glacier is melting,” Ednie says.

It’s a similar story for most of the glaciers he monitors. And worse for ones like the Peyto Glacier, a dying appendage of the Wapta Icefield in the Rockies with data going back to the late 1800s. The effects of anthropogenic global warming are compounded by ash from massive forest fires. Ash darkens the glacier and reduces the albedo effect, or the surface’s ability to reflect the sun’s energy. The result is an even faster rate of ice melt.

In some ways, Ednie’s work is similar to that of the palliative care business. He makes the rounds to ailing glaciers and takes measurements, the way a nurse dutifully takes the vitals of a terminally ill patient. They know the end is near, but they do it just the same.

Hundreds of millions of people worldwide depend on rivers originating in high mountains. In western Canada, melting snowpack contributes most of the flow to rivers with mountain headwaters. Glacier melt, on the other hand, is responsible for a small portion of streamflow, less than five percent on the Bow River, for example. However, it’s a significant contribution. Melting ice gives streams and rivers a pulse of water during the year’s hottest months. There’s a reason glaciers have been called the water coolers of the earth; they store moisture for when we need it the most. When these water coolers vanish, it will have cascading impacts on irrigation, drinking water, fish habitat, and how we manage water.

Despite the dim outlook for glaciers, even anemic ones like the Helm in the Coast Mountains or the rapidly melting Peyto are still beautiful. Earth’s history is written in the layered, turquoise-coloured walls of a crevasse like the rings of a tree. Glaciers appear, for the most part, still and silent. Yet they are animate, moving imperceptibly by the pull of gravity as they scour, claw, grind and shape the underlying rock over thousands of years into the rugged landscapes we cherish.

Next to scientists like Ednie, who poke and prod glaciers for research purposes, mountain guides, perhaps more than any other people, have a profoundly intimate relationship with glaciers. As a Squamish-based guide, Evan Stevens has lived and worked in Sea to Sky Country since 1998. Stevens has witnessed phenomenal changes in the Coast Mountains, but in a brief period, it doesn’t even register in geological terms. Moats and bergschrunds are bigger and more complicated to navigate. Glaciers like the Serratus in the Tantalus Range are so shattered and broken by late summer that they are almost too dangerous to travel. Where ice retreats, unstable ground is uncovered, creating new rockfall hazards. In other cases, melting alpine permafrost is causing mass wasting events, like the cataclysmic landslide that ripped from the north face of Mt. Joffre near Pemberton in 2019.  According to Stevens, most people think about the toe or terminus of a glacier when it comes to glacial recession. It’s easy to benchmark a glacier’s retreat. However, the diminishing thickness, perhaps less noticeable to the naked eye from year to year, profoundly impacts mountain travel, particularly at that threshold between rock and ice. As the ice thins, the glacier pulls away from cols and mountain passes. What once was a straightforward descent on skis or boots can become a technical descent requiring rappels to reach the glacier.

“As guides, we’re always thinking about plans A, B, C and D and making decisions on the fly. But in some cases, the decision is simple – not to go. The seasons are getting shorter, and some areas have higher hazards. It’s grim,” Stevens says. “I guess it’s not changing what I do, but it’s changing where and when I do it.”

Speaking to people like Stevens and Mark Ednie, you get the sense that travelling across glaciers these days is as much physical as it is nostalgic. It strikes at something existential to mountain people: the disconcerting notion of an alpine without glaciers.

“Don’t get me wrong. It’s alarming, but it’s also scientifically fascinating to imagine what we would have seen hundreds of years ago and what we will see in the future,” says Ednie. “I have two young daughters, and I want to make sure they see some of these places before they’re gone.”

Written by Andrew Findlay – @afindlayjournalist